Redrawing the defining lines of the 1950s Parisian wardrobe, the looks of the Dior autumn-winter 2023-2024 ready-to-wear show celebrated a reinvented femininity, asserting a powerful attitude verging on the rebellious. Dresses and “corolle” skirts – emblematic of the iconic Bar silhouette – featured floral prints with mottled patterns that reflect meticulous archival research, along with a bold variation adorned with a thousand leather flowers. This material with a sensual appeal is also used for a jacket, evoking the Chicago model designed by Yves Saint Laurent for the 1960-1961 autumn-winter season.
While black in all its depth and multiple shades is predominant, outfits were also punctuated with leopard and houndstooth – eternal Dior references – and crushed fabrics woven with metallic threads envelope the body in an interplay of the House’s past and future. This (re)reading of Dior style also includes a virtuoso reinterpretation of the dress called Miss Dior in homage to Catherine Dior’s affectionate nickname, revealing the wealth of expertise mastered by the Chanakya Ateliers through precious embroidery. A celebration of Dior heritage suffused with infinite modernity.
Irresistible finishing touches, bags borrow their rigorous lines from the 1950’s models, highlighted by refined details. Paired with knee-high stockings in delicate fabric, pumps with the iconic comma heel – created for Dior by Roger Vivier – feature ankle straps, while black leather ankle boots embellished with precious trimmings echo the shape of salomes. An exquisite touch, long black leather gloves are punctuated with a clasp recalling the emblematic Tribal earrings. The power of femininity celebrated by Maria Grazia Chiuri is revealed through imposing boots equipped with multiple buckles, and poetic garlands of golden raffia flowers, echoing the Valkyries who inspired the show’s set design by Joana Vasconcelos. A dash of audacity and freedom that can also be seen in an elaborate breastplate, an enchanting piece of armor-like jewelry forging a connection between strength and fragility. A subtle tribute to the unique look and grace of Parisian women who fascinate the Creative Director so much.
Images courtesy of Dior
