Gucci has opened Milan Men’s Fashion Week in what is the brand’s first collection since the departure of Alessandro Michele. And while we may not have received an announcement of who the next creative director will be, there was still much to look for during the show. Celebrities like Idris Elba, Percy Hynes White and Jeremy O. Harris were spotted sitting in the front row. The show was held at Gucci Hub in Via Mercenate and a rock band played as models were walking on a circular runway
Put together by Gucci’s in-house design team, the collection made one thing clear: Gucci is going back to basics. Plain, white T-shirts were paired with long, slightly oversized jackets in simple color palettes and wide-leg pants. Suits with detachable elements brought the attention to each wearer’s own individual interpretation while sequins shined under the spotlight and amplified the craftsmanship of the House. The FW23 back-to-basics principle was also visible by the fact that multiple staples from prior times were revived, such as the Piston Look, which was originally created by Tom Ford, the Horsebit and the Cross.
Crystal GG, a new lacquered interpretation of Gucci’s monogram from the 1970s, appeared in pop colors across bags and boots. Defined by their distinctive hardware, the Jackie 1961 bag and the Dionysus became softened and unstructured with a laidback attitude. To complete looks, defining codes such as the Horsebit and piston linked together into bracelets, and vintage-like silk scarves were intuitive gestures tied around the leg or on Gucci Bamboo 1947 bags. From the subdued and classic to the bold and attitudinal, throughout the collection the idea of the multi-faceted masculinities of Gucci took center stage, each diverse expression prompting the individual to explore their own freestyling.
Images courtesy of Gucci